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Courseulles sur mer and Caen

Onwards….to Courseulles sur mer, another of the DDay landing beaches – this time by Canadian forces-and we just need daytime parking. It’s free, and very near the beach- that’ll do nicely. It appears there used to be a 2m height barrier, which has been dismantled and discarded, so we park up with the other Mohos and wander into town.

All we need is a Boulangerie for some bread, but it looks like the fish market is the only shopping available. All the shops on the port seem to be closed. Still, it’s a nice enough walk along looking at the many fishing boats and pleasure craft.

Even the bridge across the river is closed, thus involving a walking detour to the next one. It’s getting hot, we’re getting frustrated, when suddenly we see a sign, and soon there’s a slightly more bustling town centre. Woohoo, a boulangerie, ah but there’s also a creperie. Plan B- lunch out, so no need for a baguette. Here we had delicious galettes, though everything was garnished with a strawberry or raspberry..maybe chef’s had a glut this year? Finally returning to the aire, there’s another Hymer parked next to us and the excited owner approaches us to tell us our van is from the same village in Germany where she lives…small world, eh? We have a quick natter, mainly in English but I also try a smattering of schoolgirl German, which she seemed to appreciate.

Next stop is Caen, where we visit the Memorial, the museum for peace. We’ve both visited before but feel it’s time a for a re-visit. Managing to avoid the centre of Caen, it’s relatively easy to locate, and there’s Motorhome parking at the venue. Squeezing into a space it’s time for a wander to the museum though our visit won’t be till tomorrow. Not only is this free overnight parking, but we’ve had a discount on the entry tickets, win win!

The memorial is full of interesting exhibits, including this Hawker Typhoon, and tells the history of WWI leading to WWII and subsequent war crimes trials. Very thought-provoking.

The atmosphere was very different to the DDay museums, as it encompasses so much more than “Overlord”. There was a group of teenage schoolkids, three of whom thought it was OK to take over a small cinema area during a film; feet on seats etc, whilst talking loudly. Grrr….after a few minutes of tutting, direct action was needed, so we (with another French man who was similarly annoyed) stood in front of the “yoofs” as they clearly weren’t watching the film, and when they continued talking loudly, Andrew turned to them, saying “Pardon, j’ecoute”..Bravo, that man! Our visit continued, having sorted the younger generation.

Arromanches les Bains

Having finally located someone on the farm to take our euros for the overnight stay, we hit the road again, this time heading for Arromanches but we were distracted en route by the sight of military vehicles outside the Overlord Museum at Colleville-sur-mer. This turned out to be an excellent detour. It is a private collection of military vehicles and more, often in the form of mock-ups based accurately on original photographs from WWII. A lot of these vehicles had been in use until the 1970s and beyond. A background of the sound of battle in the air and on the ground, created an immersive experience. There was also a photo collage of war veterans, accompanied by excerpts of their stories in their own words. A humbling exhibition. All in all, a museum not to be missed, though we nearly did.

Onward, along more narrow, meandering roads towards our destination of Arromanches. We had expected to find a Motorhome Aire in town, but the nearest we found had a 2m height barrier. Gee, Thanks. Instead we followed some dubious signs for “Camping Car Parking- Payant” which seemed to take us miles out of town. Once at the parking, however, it would cost us just €6 for 24 hours. And we got a seafront spot overlooking the Mulberry Harbours. As for being miles out of town, nope, it was a 10 minute (albeit very steep) walk into town.

Arromanches mulberry harbour

The view from our room. Arromanches Mulberry Harbours, put in place to support the D Day landings.

A walk around Arromanches and along the beach was enjoyed till the rain started. A bit “museumed out” we just took in the scenery, and some fresh air (and fresh rain). Chicken curry with rice on the menu tonight, with lashings of cider. One of our 5 a day, n’est-ce pas?

A Night on the Farm

The next morning, moving on from St Mere Eglise, we headed along some small, winding roads towards Utah Beach, and Le Musee du Debarquement. A continuation of our education on the subject, including a very interesting film, and even more artefacts and real life stories of the invasion.

Our Aire of choice for the night was on a farm. Ignoring the slight “farmyard” smell, we pitched up, once more among Dutch, German and French Motorhomes. These included an unusual 1952 bus conversion driven by an elderly Dutch couple.

The bikes came off the rack and we cycled to Pointe du Hoc, a 100 foot cliff where on D Day a US Army Ranger assault group courageously scaled the cliffs using ropes, ladders and grapples whilst under enemy fire. From the viewpoint we could see the multitude of craters caused by Allied bombardments which targeted the Pointe du Hoc German gun emplacements.

Back at the farm, our BBQ attracted the attention of two farm residents- a tiny kitten and a large dog, neither of which got any food from us despite their best efforts. Tonight, we also had The Big Changeover- 1 tog duvet to 4.5, as requested by Andrew, who claimed this resulted in a much better night’s sleep.

And we’re off…..

Saturday has arrived, and we each have a 6.30am alarm to swear at. A quick shower and dress up, and we’re off to Portsmouth ferryport for the 0900 Fastcraft to Cherbourg. We use our “locals’ privilege” and arrive just before the check-in closure time. Soon, we’re boarding, and Andrew has the unenviable task of reversing the Moho onto the ferry….eek! After indulging in a croissant and coffee, A has a snooze, while I do some people-watching. The upside of being among last to board is that we are then among the first to disembark.

Our first destination in France is St. Mere Eglise, where an effigy of a US Paratrooper, John Steele, still hangs from the church, as a tribute.

The adjoining Airborne museum was our next port of call; an amazing place to learn more about why the town had been a strategic target for D Day. It also explains the story of John Steele, and the other paratroopers who landed here on 6th June 1944. Having found the town’s Motorhome Aire, for our overnight stay, it was a walk back into town for a delicious meal, with obligatory bottle of cider, at a creperie.

Click on the link to see our other D-Day ’75 photos: D-Day 75